Textile Treasures: Shawls and Sarees

The textile collection of the Salar Jung Museum has both vastness and variety. One comes across Kashmir shawls, Patola sarees, Banarasi sarees, jamdanis of Lucknow, Kanthas of Bengal, Phulkari of Punjab, Chamba rumals. This exhibit highlights some Kashmiri shawls and  Banarasi odhnis and sarees from the collection.

Shawls

Salar Jung Museum has a rich collection of Kashmir shawls from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. A ruler of Kashmir, Zain-ul-abidin from the 15th century patronised shawl-weaving. He was a lover of the arts and introduced Turkistan weavers for shawl making. The word shawl is derived from Persian “shal” originally representing a class of woven fabric. Emperor Akbar was also fascinated with the Kashmir shawl. It finds mention in the Rajatarangini and the Ain-i-akbari. In this 18th century miniature painting, Sultan Abdullah Qutub Shah of Golconda is seen seated and wearing a blue shawl.

Kashmir Shawls: Inspired by Nature

In India, the shawl is worn as a shoulder-mantle and was originally a male garment, the finest having been worn by nobility. There is evidence that Sultan Abdullah Qutb Shah of Golconda (seen in the previous slide) used to wear Kashmir shawls. The shawls have rich decorative design which were either embroidered or woven on them. The turanj, a decorated mango shaped design is a favourite on the shawls.

The shawls are usually made from wool but can also be a fabric of mixed yarn. The variety of design is definitely inspired from nature, not surprising from the land of picturesque valleys and mountains.

Woollen shawl
18th century

This is a rich woollen shawl from with turanj (mango-shaped motif) and floral designs all over. Flower creeper border around with lettering in silk threads.

Himroo shawl
18th century

An exquisite white woollen shawl, most probably from Kashmir having turanj shape panels, floral designs all over in yellow and red, with cream colour plain space at each end.

Square woollen shawl
18th century

This is an interesting and elegant red, black, green and grey square woollen shawl from the eighteenth century with circular panel in the centre with vase design around it. Elongated leafy and turanj designs at the corners. Overlapping turanj designs around, the designs having been produced in silk and zari.

Rectangular shawl
18th century

Ornately designed rectangular shawl from the 18th century with floral patterns in circular panel in the centre with similar designs in the quarter circle at the corners. Flower plant designs all over against red background.

Himroo shawl
18th century

A richly designed cream colour shawl from the eighteenth century in pieces stitched together wioth flower patterns all over and circular crenellated panel in the centre having floral designs. Similar quarter circles can be seen at the corners. Floral creeper borders around the shawl.

Himroo shawl
16th century

A rich woollen shawl with flower pattern in slanting rows all over. Circuar panel with designs in the centre and similar quarter-circle at the corners. Flower creeper borders on two sides.

Woollen shawl
18th century

A red woollen shawl having floral designs in turanj shape panels all over in pieces stitched together.

Patka (waistband)
17th century

Floral shawl in silk having mango shaped designs, patka (gold print) with deep pinkish red background

Saree

The saree is an attire mostly of South Asian women, made up of a drape of five to nine yards in length and two to four feet in breadth, worn with an upper garment called choli or ravike, a blouse. Its history dates back to Indus Valley civilization. Ancient literature mentions women in exquisite drapes or saree. The variety in saree is endless including silk, cotton, ikat, block-print, tie and dye etc. in the styles of Banarasi, Kanchipuram, Paithani, Mysore, Uppada, Bhagalpuri, Chanderi, Narayanpet, Maheshwari, Patola, Pochampally, Sambalpuri, Gadwal, Jamdani, Mangalgiri, Tussar, Bandhani, Ajrakh and many more. The museum houses some Banarasi textiles like the saree and odhni.

Lady lighting lamp
1901 - 1999

A lady wearing a saree with the 'pallu' over her head, holding a burning lamp in her left hand. The lamp is ornate with a long chain attached. A golden border on the upper and lower ends with painted flower plants.

Saree
19th century

Black saree with zari lines making squares all over. Zari linear border in red on sides. Zari on red pallu with geometrical patterns and tassels at the end.

Saree
19th century

Red saree with zari lines making square patterns all over. Zari linear border on sides with four lines across. Zari pallu with geometrical pattern and tassels at the end.

Banaras silk industry

Banaras is a centre famed for its textile industry. Though it covers cotton,silk and mixed fibres, it is better known for its Zari-based silk textiles. Silk has been used since ancient times, the word used for it was ‘kausheya’. Silk was worn during religious rituals and given as gifts.

Silk fibres are obtained from silk-worms, reared on green leaves and during their breeding process cocoons are formed from which fibre is obtained.

References have been made to silk in Vedic texts, Harshacharita, Arthashastra etc. Kashi, Banaras or Varanasi was considered the source of best silk cloth and the main centre of production. The industry continued and achieved its peak during Mughal times and continues to the present day.

Banarasi textile
Early 19th century

Red Banarasi piece having zari mango designs with green silk dots all over.

Saree
19th century

This is a Banarasi doopatta having zari flower pattern in fish scale panels all over. The Zari border has zig-zag design and another one with silvery diamond shape designs in lozenge shape golden panels around against green background square patterns at the ends and turanj at the corners.

Banarasi saree
19th century

Banarasi saree having zari flower pattern in fish scale panels all over. One zari border and another one with silvery diamond shape designs in lozenge shape golden panels around, against green background. Turanj design at the corners and zg-zag designs at both ends.

Banarasi saree
19th century

Another Banarasi saree having zari flower creeper and three rows of flower patterns arranged alternately in slanting position and turanj at corners. Green border with flower creeper and another zari linear border around. Zari lozenge panels and zig-zag designs at both the ends

Banarasi saree
19th century

Dark green Banarasi saree having zari flower creeper and flower pattern in alternate slanting rows all over with turanj at corners. Border with similar designs on red background, another border with zari linear designs. Zari lozenge pattern and zig-zag designs at both the ends.

Banarasi saree
19th century

A Banarasi saree having silver flower pattern in zari lozenge panels all over. Borders with zari diamond and floral pattern against green background and zari linear designs around. Turanj designs at the corners. Zari lozenges and zig-zag designs at both the ends.

Where to buy silk sarees in Kanchipuram?

If you know about India’s ancient history, then you are fully aware of how rich our cultural heritage is. We have a remarkable traditional antiquity owing to this heritage. Every state has different kind of clothing which is made internally. With different types of weaving, a plethora of colors and designs, every place reflects its culture onto a piece of textile which is sold commercially across the world.
Kanchipuram is one of the oldest and a very special place as it generated the eminent Kanjeevaram sarees. These sarees are celebrated across the globe for their richness and are adorned with pleasure. Weddings are the special places where Kanjeevaram is draped beautifully on the bride.
kanchipuram silk sarees

Although, weddings require painstaking preparations and detailed sessions of carefully choosing the outfit, getting your traditional wedding outfit can be a huge task. There is a plethora of options in the market with traditional as well as Indo western options. But what is it that is perfect for your day? The beauty of Kanjeevaram on a bride leaves everybody enthralled. So why not try that! And while you are at it, buy these sarees from the place of their origin – Kanchipuram. We will give you a list of places in Kanchipuram from where you can score a Kanjeevaram for your wedding day.

•          Kanjivaram Silks :
Founded in 2010, kanjivaram silks hold an extraordinary reputation in providing silk sarees sourced directly from weavers. With around 50 weaving units situated in the kanjivaram city, the store delivers silk sarees globally in many major countries. You can get great varieties of kachii pattu, designer sarees, soft silk sarees etc. from the showroom at affordable prices. Sarees at kanjivaram silks are certified with silk mark and they even provide customized wedding sarees with names of groom and bride woven in the Pallu. The store has great discounts daily on several types of sarees so check out the deals for a great shopping experience.

•          Shri Sarvalakshmi Silk saree manufacturer:
Kanchipuram silk sarees from  this showroom are exclusive and unique as they are manufactured with the best materials during production. You can also purchase their superior and branded sarees online. These sarees are available in unlimited designs at unbeatable prices. The showroom has its own handloom units, weaving them using high quality raw materials. The showroom even provides repurchase facility of pure silver zari sarees at 30 percent value. SS silks have a wide variety of silks for weddings and other occasions in mesmerizing patterns and designs which are woven by ancient weavers in the city. They are now exporting to several countries worldwide and their unique and exquisite collection is classy and sophisticated. If you are looking for pure and authentic sarees for your wedding trousseau, SS silks have so much to offer, with unlimited range of sarees which are manufactured in magnificent silks.
 green kanchi silk saree
•          Prakash silks and sarees:
If you are looking for traditional sarees in pure zari, then Prakash silks are an awesome store with polite staff and huge set of collections. The store is a legendary supplier of silk throughout India and has skillful weavers to weave wonderful designs in pure material. They have sarees in heavy silks with awesome durability. Every south Indian bride prefers to shop for sarees from the store for her trousseau. Prakash silks are also famous globally for their cheerful and bright colored sarees which are a favorite with brides throughout the country. Nowadays fashion Industries around the world are mesmerized by silks from India and silk sarees are taking over the haute couture globally. You can ask for their contemporary collection, if you want to look modern with a traditional twist on your wedding day. The store has unique and wonderful sarees and is a favorite with wedding shoppers.

•          Sri Madheswaran silk saree shop:
Established in 1982, this store is a premium shopping destination for bridal trousseau. They are manufacturers, wholesalers as well as retailers of Indigenous Kancheepuram silk sarees and you can witness exclusive range of sarees in pure silk. The store has more than 800 weavers, weaving magic on their looms in the town itself.  Whether it’s your wedding, reception or engagement, there is an outfit apt for every occasion. Each saree is innovative and unique and no design is replicated by the store. Their online showroom is just a click away and you can buy pure silk sarees even if you are living far off. During the wedding and festive season, the showroom offers great collections at affordable prices so make sure to visit the store. If you cannot visit the showroom due to distances, then don’t worry their online portal provides you to shop from anywhere at any time.

•          Komathi silks:
Established in 2002, komathi silks are leading manufacturers and retailers of pure kanjiwaram silk sarees. If you are looking for contemporary silk collection of sarees for the modern woman in you, then this store is a must visit. The store is functional in Kanchipuram town and specializes in pure kanjiwaram sarees, bridal silk sarees, designer sarees or embroidered sarees.  The store is selling their products in both national and international markets and manufactures great sarees in exclusive designs at competitive prices. The store is widely spread and has high quality silk sarees in unlimited varieties. Perk up your bridal collection with sarees from Komathi Silks.

•          P S Silk sarees:
Are you looking for traditional yet trendy Kanchipuram silk sarees? P S Silk sarees have latest collection teamed up with authentic quality and fabulous designing. You can get fashionable sarees in silk infused with great designing. Every saree is an art in itself with consistent quality and innovative designs. The quality of the saree is great and the store designs innovatively keeping in mind the demand of the customers. Shop at P S Silk sarees for latest and trendy designs and look stunning in shimmery silks, when you walk to your mandap.  The clients of this store are intensely satisfied with the quality of products woven in awesome designs and the store focuses on providing finest shopping experience for the bride to be.
With so many awesome options available in the hub of saree weaving town, every shopper wants to unearth the perfect saree which suits them. Happy shopping in Kanchipuram and we hope you get your perfect bridal outfit easily without much stress.

Kanchipuram Silk Saree

Origin & History Kanchipuram Silk Saree

A famous king of the Chola dynasty ruled Kancheepuram between the years 985 and 1014, who took an initiative of silk trade. It was during the reign of Krishna-Deva Raya, when the famous weaving communities of Andhra Pradesh, the Devangas and Saligars, migrated to Kanchipuram. Thus, occurred the historical migration of the entire silk industry in the 15th century, to this city.

The two weaving communities were exclusively acknowledged for their skills at weaving silk. The weaving industry was temporarily halted during the French invasion in the 17th century. It rejuvenated and revamped its style in the 18th century. Today, it ranks among the most popular silks in the world. Very few stand out in the competition against Kanjeevarum silks. The British translated the Kanchipuram silks to Conjeevaram silks, also known as Kanjeevarum silks.

Evolution & People Behind the Art

This fabric is an inherent part of several traditional and religious ceremonies. Kanchipuram silks have created the main occupation for several in the city of Kanchipuram. The silk bears the images of all the scriptures embossed on the walls of the temples of the Kanjeevarum village.

Over decades, Kanchipuram silk has been evolving in terms of design and pattern but hasn’t lost its charm. Initially sold across the world by only merchants, today the real weavers have woken up to their own cooperative societies to sell their woven Kanjeevarum silk.

The Making & Style

The silk that is obtained from the sericulture of the mulberry worm is finely converted to produce the Kanjeevaram silk. These hand woven sarees hold their charm in the double warp and double wept, and are known for the 1.2 inches of the warp frame that can hold up to about 60 holes through which would be woven the 240 warp threads.

Around 250-300 threads would be woven into the wept. This eventually allows the saree to remain sturdy.  Generally, the zari used in a Kanchipuram silk saree would be in gold and silver with silver running in first, coated with gold later.

The sarees woven hence from this silk are mostly hand woven to design the best collection. The famous weavers of the city of Kanjeevarum have developed the art of converting this fabric into beautifully designed sarees. The designs are inspired by the scriptures and art of the temples in Kanchipuram.

Variety

Kanchipuram silk initially started with the 9-yard sarees that were woven to blend well with the culture of designing and patterning temple stories. Over a period of time, these sarees were converted to 6 yards with gold zari weaving. To make it available for every budget, these days there are Kanchipuram silk sarees woven in artificial gold zari, without loosing upon the shining glory of this textile.

Innovations

The saree has evolved in terms of textures and shapes have taken over the scriptures and art of the silk sarees. Each texture and desi have a name allotted to it with which it is best known. Thandavalam is one such patterned saree where parallel lines describe the saree.

Wearing the Attire

Being the lustrous silk, Kanchipuram has got the charm of Wedding, Cermony or any other festival. Since, silk is a thick weave, it is more suitable for cold climatic conditions.

Accessorizing with the traditional gold jewelry is the trend followed.

Maintenance

Dry cleaning is the preferred method. One should keep them outside plastic bags in a nicely folded state. One can use some pre-washing techniques as well.

Important Facts & Information

• This silk was considered to be Lord Shiva’s and Lord Vishnu’s favorite fabric as per the legends
• Accidental Husband is one of the few Hollywood movies that saw this attire on the big screen

காஞ்சிபுரம் பட்டு:

காஞ்சிபுரத்தை பற்றி ஒரு பழமொழி உண்டு. 'காஞ்சீபுரம் சென்றால் காலாட்டிக்கொண்டே சாப்பிடலாம்' என்பதாகும். இதன் அர்த்தம் --- காஞ்சீபுரம் சென்றால் கைத்தறி நெசவு நெய்து, பணம் சம்பாதித்து சாப்பிடலாம் என்பதாகும்.

கைத்தறியில் நெசவு நெய்யும் போது, கையையும் காலையும் பயன் படுத்த வேண்டும். அதாவது கையையும் காலையும் ஆட்டிக்கொண்டே என்பதன் அர்த்தமாகும். காஞ்சிபுரம் நெசவுத்தொழிலுக்கும் மிகவும் புகழ் பெற்றது.

பட்டுச் சேலை நெய்யும் முறை:

காஞ்சிபுரத்தில் பட்டு சேலைகள், கோர்த்து வாங்கும் முறை, கோர்த்து வாங்காமல் சாதாரண வாட் முறை என இரண்டு முறைகளில் நெய்யப்படுகிறது.

பட்டுச் சேலைகளில் பயன்படுத்தப்படும் ஜரிகையின் தரம் முக்கியம். 245 கிராம் ஜரிகை ஒரு மார்க் என அழைக்கப்படுகிறது. இதில் 191 கிராம் வெள்ளி (78சதவீதம்), 51.55 கிராம் பட்டு (21சதவீதம்), 2.45 கிராம் தங்கம் (1 சதவீதம்) இருக்கும். தற்போது இந்நிலை இல்லை.

காஞ்சிபுரம் பட்டுக் கூட்டுறவு சங்கங்களில் தங்கம் 0.59 சதவீதம், வெள்ளி 57 சதவீதம், பட்டு 24 சதவீதம், காப்பர் 18.41 சதவீதம் பயன்படுத்தப்படுகிறது. பெரும்பாலான காஞ்சிபுரம் பட்டுச் சேலைகளில் இரு புறமும் ஜரிகை பார்டர் இருக்கும்.

ஜரிகை பார்டர் 2 முதல் 8 அங்குலம் அகலம் கொண்டதாக இருக்கும். சேலை மற்றும் முந்தியை தனியே நெய்து சேர்ப்பர்.இதை பிட்னி என்று பெயர்.

முகூர்த்த பட்டுப்புடவை தயாரிக்க 350 கிராமிலிருந்து 450 கிராம் வரை ஜரிகை, 500 கிராம் பட்டு நூல் தேவை. மூலப்பொருட்கள் விலை உயர்வால் முகூர்த்த பட்டுப்புடவை விலை குறைந்தபட்சம் 35 ஆயிரம் ரூபாய் என விற்கப்படுகிறது.

பட்டு வரலாறு:

தமிழர்கள் பண்டைக் காலம் முதற்கொண்டு பட்டு, கம்பளி ஆடைகளை அணிந்தும் சரிகைகள் இணைந்த ஆடைகளைப் புனைந்தும் வந்துள்ளனர்.

ஆடை நெசவுக்கலை 5000 ஆண்டுகள் பழைமை வாய்ந்தது என்பதைச் சிந்து சமவெளி நாகரிகச் சின்னங்களில் காணப்படும்ஆடைகள் உணர்த்துகின்றன.

வனப்பும் மென்மையும் மிகுந்த ஆடைகள் தமிழகத்தில் நெய்யப்பட்டு பயன்பாட்டில் இருந்ததுடன், அவை வெளிநாடுகளுக்கும் ஏற்றுமதிசெய்யப்பட்டன.

ஆதிச்ச நல்லூரில் புதைக்கப்பட்டவர்கள் தாமிரபரணி ஆற்றங்கரையில் நெல், பருத்திஆகியவற்றை விவசாயம் செய்தது மட்டுமல்ல நெசவுத் தொழிலும் செய்து வந்தனர் என்று அறியமுடிகிறது.

கி .பி . 985-ல் தமிழகத்தில் இராஜராஜ சோழன்காலத்தில் பட்டு நெசவு செழிப்புற்று வளர்ந்தது . தஞ்சைப் பெரியகோவிலின் கோபுரத்தின் உட்புறத்தில் தீட்டப்பட்டுள்ள ஓவியத்தில்மன்னர் இராஜராஜன் தன் மனைவியருடன் பட்டாடையில், நடராஜரை வழிபடுவதான காட்சி இன்றளவும் காணப்படுவதாகக் கூறப்படுகிறது.

உறையூரில் முன்காலத்தில் நெசவுத் தொழிலுக்குச் சாயமிடும் தொட்டி காணப்பட்டதாகவும். உறையூரில் நெசவு செய்யப்பட சேலைகள் ஒரு தேங்காய் மூடியில் அடைக்கக் கூடிய அளவுக்கு மெல்லியதாக இருந்ததாகவும் கூறப்படுகிறது. காஞ்சிபுரம் பட்டு வரலாறு

காஞ்சிபுரம் பட்டு பராமரிப்பு:

பட்டு சேலையை பராமரிப்பது ஒரு தனி ஸ்டைல். முறையாக பராமரித்து வந்தால் பல ஆண்டுகள் நன்றாக இருக்கும்.

1. விஷேசங்களுக்கு சென்று வந்தவுடன் பட்டு புடவையை களைந்து உடனே மடித்து வைக்க கூடாது.நிழலில் காற்றாட 2 அல்லது 3 மணி நேரம் உலரவிட்டு பின்பு அதனை கைகளால் அழுத்தி தேய்த்து மடித்து எடுத்து வைக்கவேண்டும்.

2. சாதாரண தண்ணீரால் மட்டும் அலசினால் போதுமானது. எக்காணரத்தை கொண்டும் பட்டுப்புடவையை சூரியஒளி படும்படி வைக்க கூடாது.

3.பட்டு புடவையின் மீது ஏதேனும் கறை பட்டால் உடனே தண்ணீர் விட்டு அலச வேண்டும்.

4.எண்ணெய் போன்ற கடினமான கறைகளாக இருந்தால் அந்த இடத்தில் விபூதியை போட்டு 5 முதல் 10 நிமிடங்கள் வரை வைத்து பின்பு தண்ணீர் விட்டு அலசவேண்டும்.

5.அடிக்கடி அயர்ன் செய்வதை தவிர்க்க வேண்டும், அயர்ன் செய்யும் பொழுதும் ஜரிகையை திருப்பிப்போட்டு அதன் மேல் லேசான துணி விரித்து அதன் பின்பு அயர்ன் செய்ய வேண்டும். நேரடியாக அயர்ன் செய்யக்கூடாது.

6.பட்டுப்புடவைகளை அட்டை பெட்டிகளிலோ, பிளாஸ்டிக் கவர்களிலோ வைப்பதை காட்டிலும் துணிப்பைகளில் வைத்தல் அதன் தன்மையை பாதுகாக்கும்.

7.வருடக்கணக்கில் பட்டுபுடவையை தண்ணீரில் நனைக்காமல் வைக்க கூடாது. பயன்படுத்தாமல் இருந்தாலும் 3 மாதத்திற்கு ஒரு முறையாவது தண்ணீரில் அலசி நிழலில் உலரவிட வேண்டும்.

8.பட்டுப்புடவையை தாராளமாகத் துவைக்கலாம். புடவை ஒரு கலரிலும், பார்டர் ஒரு கலரிலும் இருந்தால், முந்தானையையும், பார்டரையும் ஒரு கயிற்றால் கட்டி, தண்ணீரில் படாமல், உடல் பகுதியை மட்டும் பூந்திக்கொட்டை ஊற வைத்த தண்ணீரில் நனைத்துத் துவைக்கலாம்.

பிறகு அதைக் காய வைத்து, அடுத்து பார்டர், முந்தானைப் பகுதிகளை வேறு தண்ணீரில் தனியே துவைத்து உலர்த்த வேண்டும்.

9.பட்டைத் துவைக்காமலோ, பாலீஷ் போடாமலோ அப்படியே உடுத்தினால், வியர்வை பட்டு, அதிலுள்ள உப்பு, ஜரிகைப் பகுதியை அரித்து விடும்.